My summer these last few years has been about two trips…Croatia and Alaska. Croatia is my mom’s favorite place in the world and Alaska is my dad’s. He has been coming to Sikta for twenty years to fish and I have had the amazing opportunity to come the last seven. I grew up fishing in Canada and North Dakota and even though my blond pigtails and pink Northface jacket don’t really show it I am a die-hard fisher-woman!

Going to Sitka as part of a fishing trip or as part of a greater trip to Alaska is something I would highly suggest for all of you nature lovers. Not only do you get to go out into the ocean and fish (which is one of my favorite things to do) but also you have a beautiful little town and national park to explore on your days off. We get here, have one day to recoup from traveling, fish for three days and then have a final day to shop or do some sightseeing.

Though Sitka is part of many Alaska cruises I have to say that I will never advocate going on a cruise boat. I don’t think they ever give you enough time to get to know a place very well and when the cruise boats are in town all of the strange touristy food cards and tacky novelties come out.

Sitka has a rich history of both Tlingit, Russian and American influences. Below is an example of Tlingit Carvings from the Southeast Alaska Heritage Center which is part of Sitka National Historical Park. Not only can you see carvings such as these but also metal and textile work as well. They have in-house artists who are more than happy as they work to answer questions.

In Sitka you can find a few store that still sell authentic Tlingit jewlery and art. Obviously there are always cheap copies but some of the real craftwork is just to stunning to pass up. I bought a silver bracelet here a few years ago at the Sitka Rose Gallery (419 Lincoln Street next to Russian Bishop’s House). The owner Eugene works with native Alaskan artists and has everything from jewlery to large scale sculpture.

I also would take a moment and see the Shee’tka Naa Kahidi Dancers who have a few shows a day. They even ask you to dance with them…I made my dad do it once and I still chuckle when I think about it.

Sitka was also the capital of Russian America and that influence still can be seen throughout the city. Your first visit should include St. Michael’s Cathedral which is a U.S. National Historic Landmark. It was built in 1848 and is Russian Orthodox Church and is an excellent exhibit of the Russian influence in North America. There are many stores that sell Russian handicrafts and imports as well as religious icons. Also the Russian Bishop’s House is a great way to see more historical artifacts of the Russian period in Sitka. This is among the best surviving examples of a 19th-century Russian residence in the United States and the oldest in Sitka.

The American Frontier Spirit in Sikta is still going strong. I love to ask locals their “story” how they ended up here and what keeps them in Alaska. A lot of people who have lived here for generations have commercial fishing roots in Sikta. When you eat salmon at restaurants these days it is sadly often from fish farms which are toxic to the environment and to you. The “real deal” is salmon caught by trollers who are owned and operated here in Sitka by independant fishing families. This is the bright fresh salmon that is line caught and treated with care, immediately iced down and flash frozen. Many locals here have a moto “Friends Don’t Let Friends Eat Farmed Salmon.”

You have the opportunity in Sitka to go fishing with charter companies and experience the bounty of the sea which many people in Sitka make their living on. Even though your main mission is fishing you also have the opportunity to spot sea lions, otters, puffins, killer whales and bald eagles. We fish with Pacific Tides Charters (907-747-6145) which is a family owned boat with very nice captains. Though each year is different fishing wise we usually ship between 200-400 pounds of fish back home. The usual limit for salmon is 6 per day/per angler for coho (silver) salmon and 1 king per day/per angler and 3 for the year. There are numerous other fish you can fish for and keep including black bass, ling cod and halibut. If you are going solo you can also hook up with some other fishermen/women with some of the bigger companies as well. A suggestion of a Lodge/Fishing package can be found at Kingfisher Charters which I have heard great things about as well.

Sitka has many amazing walks/runs and hikes that are easily accessible from downtown. A book “Sitka Trails” can be picked up at the Sitka National Historical Park office gift shop which has a lot of great information on hiking trails. The most popular trail to walk is in Totem Park. This walk starts at the Visitor Center and goes through 113 acres of temperate rain forest. This park is Alaska’s oldest federally designated park and was established in 1910 to commemorate the 1804 Battle of Sitka which was the last major conflict between the Europeans and Tlingit natives. Once you are done with that take a moment and enjoy the 12 min. video on Sitka’s colorful history. My family and I watch it every year…for some odd reason it never gets old. There are also a few tours that also begin at the visitors center lead by Forest Rangers.

The walk immediately from the visitors center goes through Totem Park which is has beautiful examples of traditional Tligit totem poles as well as the site of the Tlingit for and battlefield.

This is a picture of my dad and I posing in front of some of the older Tlingit Totems. Below is a photo from the beautiful hike where you get a great view of Sitka Harbor.

Even though Sitka has a varied history of living off the bounty of the land there is a strong spirit here of conservation. An example of Sitka’s environmental commitment is the Alaska Raptor Center which is Alaska’s foremost bald eagle hospital and educational center.

The Raptor Center is either a quick taxi ride or a short walk from downtown. I would walk through Totem Park, cross the highway (they have the crossway marked by yellow “talons”) then walk down the street towards the center. There you can join a tour and see all of the different birds that are currently either being rehabilitated or housed at the center. Inside the center there is a gift-shop and a bigger room where various times during the day they bring out a volunteer from the center with a bald eagle to answer questions about the birds and the mission of the center.

How to Get There

Alaska Airlines- They run regular flights into the airport at Sitka which is about 2 miles from the center of town.

Alaska Marine Highway System- I will admit I’ve never taken this but I have heard it is a good way to explore Southeast Alaska. Click the link for schedules.

Shopping

Sitka Rose Gallery- 419 Lincoln Street, next to Russian Bishop’s House. Great place to go for native Alaskan art, sculpture and textiles.

Alaska Basket Company- A local owned business that sells not only traditional Alaska gift items but also beautiful carved chests by the owners husband. My suggestion of a great thing to buy is an Ulu Knife or smoked salmon.

Russian American Company (407 Lincoln Street) A great selection of Russian made crystal, china and gifts. They have a special section of beautiful antique icons and jewelry as well. My favorite thing that I’ve bought here is a Tipsy Hand Cut Crystal Vodka set.

Mountain Miss Gear and Gifts- (322 Lincoln Street) Great hiking, camping, and fishing gear just for women.

Where To Eat

Westmark Hotel- I know, hotel food?? But this is one of the best places to eat in Sitka for breakfast, lunch or dinner. They have a great Alaska King Crab Leg dinner as well as fresh-seafood specials and a killer clam chowder.

Fishing Resources

Pacific Tides Charters- Owned by Stan and Laurie Johnson. (907-752-0947)

The last few days I have been using my free time to plan a trip to Argentina with my boyfriend. We haven’t done a trip just the two of us since Turks and Caicos a few years ago. I am very excited to take on this adventure even if it is a bit daunting to figure out how to do everything we want to do in 10 days.

I have been to Peru, Colombia, Equador and Brazil and have fallen in love with South America and I can’t wait to finally get to Argentina.

Our plan so far is to stay at the Marriot in Buenos Aires for 5 nights and make sure to see all of the historical sites of Argetina (and enjoy a lot of wine!). One of those days we are going to an Estancia and ride horses, drink some more wine, and see the Pampas. I am trying to get the boyfriend to take a tango lesson with me but not sure if that will really happen.

Even though there are about a month’s worth of excursions I am dying to do it looks like we are going to just do Iguazu Falls. After asking around it is the one trip everyone says is a must-do. Think Mendoza and the wine country will have to wait for another trip as well as Patagonia. We do have time for another little day trip which will most-likely be Tigre’s Delta.

So excited for this trip! This is the first big trip I’ve really planned on my own without my mom or visiting friends. Thankfully the internet is a beautiful thing and I’ve found some great websites to help me out!

I will admit that I have not been to London since I lived there for 3 months studying theatre at RADA in 2001. I can’t believe it has been so long but due to the pound being so strong against the dollar it seemed just nuts to go visit unless I had a good reason.

Going from Dubrovnik to New York I had to spend an evening in London (due to my mom and I wanting to spend our last morning at the beach) so I extended it to two evenings and hit the town.

This visit I got to visit some very fun places that were a bit off my radar when I was 19 and hitting up the clubs in Trafalgar Square.

My good friend, who has recently bought a place in Mayfair, is a bit of a clothes horse but he insisted that I go buy myself something there due to the fact that everything is super fun and super cheap. He himself was wearing Primark jeans. It is in the same vein as H&M and a little nuts to navigate through all of the people but the clothes are adorable. Bought a jaunty trench coat which was a very good purchase seeing that my second day there was cold and rainy.

Check out their website here for locations.

I also had the pleasure of getting the Porn Star Martini (which was suggested by the host) at Beach Blanket Babylon. I am not the biggest fan of really trendy restaurants but this one is just a hoot. The drinks are really inventive and are full of fresh fruit and inventive liquors and the food is really tasty. I had a smoked salmon appetiser and roasted lamb which really hit the spot. It is located in Notting Hill which is a lovely neighborhood and there are bars down the street which are good to hit up after dinner.

My London trip was rounded out with a walk through Hyde Park, some sight-seeing, as well as a late-night showing of Bruno. It was amazing to be back in a city where the taxi drivers know where they are going and people in general are super friendly.

If you can catch a flight into London into Gatwick make sure you take the Gatwick Express which is a quick train that drops you right off at Victoria Station. It is a really lovely train, takes about 30mins and runs every 15mins. I was pleased to also find that they have a little cart where you can get a nice cup of tea

Can’t wait to get back!

So I am back from the most amazing and restful trip to Dubrovnik which was the 7th time I’ve visted this amazing city.

I am so excited to be forwarding on information about Dubrovnik to family and friends who are starting to catch on that it is the most AMAZING city in the world.

Here are some updates to my Croatia Travel Tips!

Shopping:

Gallery “Giardin”- Miha Pracata 8 T

This store used to have a lot more merchandise but still is a great place to go for some really authentic designer merchandise. Sadly, now they also have some really weird touristy stuff but worth a visit still just to see the store itself.

Ronchi Hat Factory- Lucarica 2

This is a must do for anybody that wants a beautiful hand-made hat. I actually met the lady who is the resident hat designer who was very nice and showed us old photos of her family who has been making hats in Dubrovnik since 1858. She herself used to be a 70s pop star and now is an amazing artist. My mom bought a beautiful black sculpted hat and I bought a hand-made pink knit hat for only 20 bucks!

Obrt “Nostalgija”- Maroice Kaboge 7

This store I have never been to until this visit and I’m so glad I found it. It is down a long street (address above) but at the very end. It is worth looking around for because they have beautiful hand-made icons, oils, and authentic art that is far and above better than some of the “cruise ship special” stuff you will get in the heart of the city. They also have little “guardian angels” that are lacquered onto wood that are great gifts!

I have to say that this visit was just lovely. I did learn some Croatian, finally but the city is getting so friendly English wise it really isn’t necessary. Please email me at TiffanyWestlie@gmail.com if you have any questions about your Croatian trip!

I travel to Croatia every year and people are always asking me about what to do/see.

Here is some information I pulled together for some friends who are going this summer.

Croatia
“Pearl of the Adriatic”
These are a few of my favorite things!

Remember, Croatia is on “Croatian time.” The people are the sweetest in the world yet go at their own pace.  Once you land in Dubrovnik slow down, have a drink and enjoy the warm weather and salty air. It is a magical place and you will have a magical time!

Hotels

Excelsior Hotel- an amazing 4 star gem in Dubrovnik that has just been refurbished. This is where the celebrities and political figures have stayed for years and also has the most amazing place to enjoy the sea (a private stone beach). Even if you are not    staying here make sure you stop by for a drink on the patio where live piano and guitar music accompany a gorgeous view of the old city. If you are there during the Libertas Music festival book a ticket for the opening ceremony party and get an amazing view of the fireworks.

Hilton Imperial- Though the Hilton doesn’t have the private beach access that the     Excelsior boats it is a beautiful and brand new choice that is a few steps away     from the old city and the public beach. It is a great choice for those who want to enjoy the city in the evening and return to a quiet room with a beautiful view.

Rooms to Rent- My mom has friends in Croatia (and there are numerous other options as well) that rent rooms but they are simple and a bit loud with the church bells. I have stayed with her a few times, however, at it is pretty fun to see how locals     live. If you are on a budget you can find a nice small room for about $60-100     within the city walls or there are always less-expensive options a bit outside of Dubrovnik. I know there are hostels as well outside the city but I have no idea what they are like.

Restaurants

As your walk around Dubrovnik you are going to see a lot of people trying to lure you into their restaurants. Saying that, the food in Croatia is so good that I doubt you could really go wrong but here are my favorite places that serve up great local fresh food.

Mea Culpa- When in Europe you must do pizza and Mea Culpa is the BEST in Dubrovnik. This is not just a pizza place for tourist but a favorite of locals. They have your traditional pizzas but also try their calzones as well.
Located on the top of Siroka Street, 100 meters away from the old city main walls.

Kamenice- Croatia for Oysters. This is a local restaurant that has amazing local oysters from Ston. You can find this is the square right behind St. Blaise.

Taj Mahal- This is a Bosnian restaurant and the only suggestion I will give that isn’t a light seafood meal. A perfect meal for a night that you feel like a big hearty meal! Get the Cevapcici which is ground seasoned beef sausages served with fluffy bread and sauce. Even my health-conscious mother doesn’t miss a trip here when she is in the Old City. Make sure you also try some of the roasted vegetables.

Nautika- This is located outside the Pile gate on the waterfront. Prices are pretty steep and my suggestion is to forgo some of the entrees and get a big local fresh fish (you may by ounce) and some side dishes. The view you can not beat but with starters, wine and entrees be ready to spend $70-80 dollars a person.

Food and Booze:

When people tell me they are going to Dubrovnik my mouth immediately begins to water. Wandering around the city you realize that you don’t see any “fast food.” That is because in Dubrovnik they believe in using fresh, local ingredients and keeping to their traditions of making amazing light food.

Food prices go from moderate to expensive depending where you eat. I tend to like the food from the cheaper restaurants better than anything else just because it is non-fussy home cooked food. The olive oil is made locally here and is to die for. I eat like a pig every time I visit and have always come home a few pounds lighter.

Calamari- in Croatia Calamari (or Ligne) is a must-eat. Forget the tiny chewy calamari that you have most-likely eaten for happy hour. This is tender, fresh and full of   flavor. Most local restaurants will serve this either grilled or fried with yellow    potatoes and kale. It is amazing, just amazing. I like it fried…eat it every day I am    there.

Cevapacici- ground beef sausages. (see Taj Mahal)

Oysters- Ston Oysters are some of the best around. Pair these with some fresh bread and a cold beer and you have a satisfying meal on a cold night (see Kaminece)

Fish- Eat it! It is fresh and fabulous. Most restaurants will be able to cook up a whole fish for you to share.

Octopus Salad- It is sooo good here. Served cold and with capers and lots of flavor it is a great starter to share or a light lunch option.

Posip- Best local white wine in Croatia.

Croatian Brandy: Try some of the hard stuff while you are in Croatia as well but be  very careful, it is strong stuff!

Beer- Drink the local beer (Ojusko), it is cheap and delicious

Shopping

The jewelry in Croatia is amazing, but also that being said make sure that you go shopping at the right places and when the cruise boats are not in. The “local” stands that are put up during the dreaded “boat afternoons” usually are selling junk.

There is a lady selling hand-woven lace which is a local craft who does appear, however when the boats are in. She is right at the entrance to Pile gate and has a little dog with her. This is the real deal J Also, there is a stone work place right behind where she usually sets up that has beautiful Brac stone (this is near a high end boutique now I believe)

Make sure you look into the smaller stores off Stradun. Most of the Stradun stuff is really touristy and for the boat folks (you can tell how much I love cruise boats). I can’t remember the exact names of some of my favorite smaller stores but wander and you will find some gems. Here are a few I can remember the names/locations of.

Ronchi Hat Factory- Beautiful hand-made hats. This has been here forever and boats some amazing hats. Lucaria 2.

Jewelry Gallery Djardin- This beautiful store is huge and filled with beautiful displays of jewelry that often look like art pieces. Though some of it gets to be very     expensive, they do have a range of products that are made by a famous Croatian     designer.
Miha Pracata 8

Trinity- Some of the most beautiful jewelry you will ever find. Every year my mom and I buy at least one piece of their pearl jewelry. Even if you aren’t in the market to     buy it is a beautiful store with a lovely and helpful staff.
It is located off Stradun at Palmoticeva 2.

Bars

Buza Bar- there is a sign outside the “real” one that says cold drinks. It is super romantic and since I always have problems figuring which one it is try to find both of them.
It is very difficult to explain how to get there without getting lost. It is on the outer side of the Old Town walls facing Italy. The best way to get there is to go behind the Church of St. Blaise and to keep walking past Hemingway bar, past the Cathedral, then pick a little side street and walk towards the wall facing the Adriatic sea and Italy. When you hit the wall keep walking along it until you reach a door. At this point, you can go left or right, and either way will take you to one of the two Buza bars- slightly different spots, no food, great views either way.

East-West- During the day this is a restaurant right on the public beach but at night this becomes a nightclub that is open till 3am (though to be honest I’ve been here as   the sun is going up). They have a long drink list of fun, fruity and expensive     cocktails but it is on the beach and is a great place enjoy Banje beach in the     evening.

Troubadour Hard Jazz Café- The Troubadour is home to my favorite jazz band ever. They are a group of musicians that change every night and are true locals. The    bass player even played my mom’s 28th Birthday party way back in the day. Order    beer as this is the cheapest and quickest thing when this is super busy. Don’t     worry about finding someone to grab you a table, once one opens up grab it, flag     down a waiter and enjoy the music.

Irish Pub- It is a bit “eh” in my opinion but a great place to stop by to meet     American/British/Irish/Aussie boys and then hit up some of the dive bars on the     other side of Stradun (which you only REALLY want to go to in groups) but there     are some sandwich places for late-night food.

There are various other bars on Stradun to get coffee/beer/wine. You really can drink all day which is what I tend to do J If for some odd reason it rains hit up the other side of Stradun on the side-streets for bars that have more of an indoor space (sort of useless if it’s a gorgeous night out!)

Sites to See

Palace Sponzza/ War Museum- While walking through Dubrovnik take the time to see  some of the pockmarked walls. This city was under siege burned and its residents almost starved out in the 1990s. Take the time to see where the bombs hit the roofs and note how the city has re-built itself once again as a tourist mecca. The     War Museum is small but moving and puts the history of Dubrovnik into     perspective since UNESCO just recently finished rebuilding the city.

Dubrovnik Synagogue/Sinagoga- Oldest Sephardic synagogue in the world and second oldest in Europe.

Rector’s Palace- Used to be the seat of the government. They often have concerts here during the Festival and otherwise has a museum.

Aquarium and Maritime Museum- As I child I ran away to here with my friend Robi. It isn’t the best Aquarium but I do love it and always a nice, cool place to be on a hot afternoon.

War Photo Limited- This is the world’s only space that is dedicated solely to war     photography. Since we had friends in Croatia during the war this was a very     emotional place for me to visit. Plan going here then perhaps hitting up the shops     or a wine bar afterwards.

Lindo- Lindo does evenings of Folkloric Music and Dance and has been around for the last 40 years. It is a beautiful evening of music and dance and when the festival is  not on performs outside the city walls just before Banje beach.

Church of St. Blaise- You will see lots of St Blaise all around Dubrovnik as he is their patron Saint. This church is in the main square at the Ploce gate end of Stradun.

Onofri’s Great Fountain- This was bombed during the Balkan conflict of the 90s but has been beautifully re-done. During the 1991-92 war this was the only source of     water for the citizens of Dubrovnik who stayed within the old city. Take a look over to your side and see the kids trying to step onto the stone step and hold themselves up. It is a fun activity to try but be careful as falling on the stone in the  Old City can not be too fun.
It is located just as you come into the city via the Pile gate.

Check your guide book for more museums and sites within the city. I would give yourself an evening just to wander through the city…the side streets are very interesting and a bit of a workout when you get to the steps.

Walking the Walls

This is the MUST DO activity in Dubrovnik. The city’s walls are a great and challenging walk…wear comfortable shoes! You can get onto the walls at a few points in the city, just remember to keep your ticket on you because there are a few checkpoints where you will have to show that you paid.

While you are on the walls take time to get some great photos down Stradun (the main walkway through the walled city). Also speaking of time, the best time to walk the walls is at early in the evening where you get great light and it isn’t too hot. Also at that time the cruise boaters are safely back on their boats.

No worries there are places to get water/soda or even a snack while you are up there. Also while you are walking the length of the walls remember to stop at the Maritime Museum where you can see old maps dating back to the 1200s.

Lokrum

Lokrum is a great day trip from the city, just a 10min ferry ride from the harbor. Here you can swim, sun and enjoy all of the coves on the outskirts of the island. There is also a Benedictine Monastery, which is now in ruins but interesting to walk around and an adjourning Botanical Garden. Right near the Monestary there is a nice restaurant where you can get risotto with Squid Ink (which is soooo good!). Give yourself time to take a nice walk around the Island.

A note on Lokrum, watch the signs and stay away form the nude beach. If you want to sunbathe topless you can do that anywhere. The nude folks there are old and it is really not a site to see.

Get a map of the Island as it is tricky to found your way around….but don’t worry you can’t really get that lost. Remember bring sunscreen, a towel, cash (no ATMs!) and some water as you want to stay hydrated spending your day in the sun.

Stuff to check out that I haven’t done since I was a little kid

- Fish Picnic- drink on a boat, go to a beach, drink on the beach enjoy! There are places that advertise this in the old city, have no idea who does them now but they are very fun.

- Mostar- going this summer, it is a day trip and supposedly just breathtaking

- Korcula- home-made wine and olive oil, very peaceful and secluded beaches, very old-world traditional

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