I travel to Croatia every year and people are always asking me about what to do/see.
Here is some information I pulled together for some friends who are going this summer.
Croatia
“Pearl of the Adriatic”
These are a few of my favorite things!
Remember, Croatia is on “Croatian time.” The people are the sweetest in the world yet go at their own pace. Once you land in Dubrovnik slow down, have a drink and enjoy the warm weather and salty air. It is a magical place and you will have a magical time!
Hotels
Excelsior Hotel- an amazing 4 star gem in Dubrovnik that has just been refurbished. This is where the celebrities and political figures have stayed for years and also has the most amazing place to enjoy the sea (a private stone beach). Even if you are not staying here make sure you stop by for a drink on the patio where live piano and guitar music accompany a gorgeous view of the old city. If you are there during the Libertas Music festival book a ticket for the opening ceremony party and get an amazing view of the fireworks.
Hilton Imperial- Though the Hilton doesn’t have the private beach access that the Excelsior boats it is a beautiful and brand new choice that is a few steps away from the old city and the public beach. It is a great choice for those who want to enjoy the city in the evening and return to a quiet room with a beautiful view.
Rooms to Rent- My mom has friends in Croatia (and there are numerous other options as well) that rent rooms but they are simple and a bit loud with the church bells. I have stayed with her a few times, however, at it is pretty fun to see how locals live. If you are on a budget you can find a nice small room for about $60-100 within the city walls or there are always less-expensive options a bit outside of Dubrovnik. I know there are hostels as well outside the city but I have no idea what they are like.
Restaurants
As your walk around Dubrovnik you are going to see a lot of people trying to lure you into their restaurants. Saying that, the food in Croatia is so good that I doubt you could really go wrong but here are my favorite places that serve up great local fresh food.
Mea Culpa- When in Europe you must do pizza and Mea Culpa is the BEST in Dubrovnik. This is not just a pizza place for tourist but a favorite of locals. They have your traditional pizzas but also try their calzones as well.
Located on the top of Siroka Street, 100 meters away from the old city main walls.
Kamenice- Croatia for Oysters. This is a local restaurant that has amazing local oysters from Ston. You can find this is the square right behind St. Blaise.
Taj Mahal- This is a Bosnian restaurant and the only suggestion I will give that isn’t a light seafood meal. A perfect meal for a night that you feel like a big hearty meal! Get the Cevapcici which is ground seasoned beef sausages served with fluffy bread and sauce. Even my health-conscious mother doesn’t miss a trip here when she is in the Old City. Make sure you also try some of the roasted vegetables.
Nautika- This is located outside the Pile gate on the waterfront. Prices are pretty steep and my suggestion is to forgo some of the entrees and get a big local fresh fish (you may by ounce) and some side dishes. The view you can not beat but with starters, wine and entrees be ready to spend $70-80 dollars a person.
Food and Booze:
When people tell me they are going to Dubrovnik my mouth immediately begins to water. Wandering around the city you realize that you don’t see any “fast food.” That is because in Dubrovnik they believe in using fresh, local ingredients and keeping to their traditions of making amazing light food.
Food prices go from moderate to expensive depending where you eat. I tend to like the food from the cheaper restaurants better than anything else just because it is non-fussy home cooked food. The olive oil is made locally here and is to die for. I eat like a pig every time I visit and have always come home a few pounds lighter.
Calamari- in Croatia Calamari (or Ligne) is a must-eat. Forget the tiny chewy calamari that you have most-likely eaten for happy hour. This is tender, fresh and full of flavor. Most local restaurants will serve this either grilled or fried with yellow potatoes and kale. It is amazing, just amazing. I like it fried…eat it every day I am there.
Cevapacici- ground beef sausages. (see Taj Mahal)
Oysters- Ston Oysters are some of the best around. Pair these with some fresh bread and a cold beer and you have a satisfying meal on a cold night (see Kaminece)
Fish- Eat it! It is fresh and fabulous. Most restaurants will be able to cook up a whole fish for you to share.
Octopus Salad- It is sooo good here. Served cold and with capers and lots of flavor it is a great starter to share or a light lunch option.
Posip- Best local white wine in Croatia.
Croatian Brandy: Try some of the hard stuff while you are in Croatia as well but be very careful, it is strong stuff!
Beer- Drink the local beer (Ojusko), it is cheap and delicious
Shopping
The jewelry in Croatia is amazing, but also that being said make sure that you go shopping at the right places and when the cruise boats are not in. The “local” stands that are put up during the dreaded “boat afternoons” usually are selling junk.
There is a lady selling hand-woven lace which is a local craft who does appear, however when the boats are in. She is right at the entrance to Pile gate and has a little dog with her. This is the real deal J Also, there is a stone work place right behind where she usually sets up that has beautiful Brac stone (this is near a high end boutique now I believe)
Make sure you look into the smaller stores off Stradun. Most of the Stradun stuff is really touristy and for the boat folks (you can tell how much I love cruise boats). I can’t remember the exact names of some of my favorite smaller stores but wander and you will find some gems. Here are a few I can remember the names/locations of.
Ronchi Hat Factory- Beautiful hand-made hats. This has been here forever and boats some amazing hats. Lucaria 2.
Jewelry Gallery Djardin- This beautiful store is huge and filled with beautiful displays of jewelry that often look like art pieces. Though some of it gets to be very expensive, they do have a range of products that are made by a famous Croatian designer.
Miha Pracata 8
Trinity- Some of the most beautiful jewelry you will ever find. Every year my mom and I buy at least one piece of their pearl jewelry. Even if you aren’t in the market to buy it is a beautiful store with a lovely and helpful staff.
It is located off Stradun at Palmoticeva 2.
Bars
Buza Bar- there is a sign outside the “real” one that says cold drinks. It is super romantic and since I always have problems figuring which one it is try to find both of them.
It is very difficult to explain how to get there without getting lost. It is on the outer side of the Old Town walls facing Italy. The best way to get there is to go behind the Church of St. Blaise and to keep walking past Hemingway bar, past the Cathedral, then pick a little side street and walk towards the wall facing the Adriatic sea and Italy. When you hit the wall keep walking along it until you reach a door. At this point, you can go left or right, and either way will take you to one of the two Buza bars- slightly different spots, no food, great views either way.
East-West- During the day this is a restaurant right on the public beach but at night this becomes a nightclub that is open till 3am (though to be honest I’ve been here as the sun is going up). They have a long drink list of fun, fruity and expensive cocktails but it is on the beach and is a great place enjoy Banje beach in the evening.
Troubadour Hard Jazz Café- The Troubadour is home to my favorite jazz band ever. They are a group of musicians that change every night and are true locals. The bass player even played my mom’s 28th Birthday party way back in the day. Order beer as this is the cheapest and quickest thing when this is super busy. Don’t worry about finding someone to grab you a table, once one opens up grab it, flag down a waiter and enjoy the music.
Irish Pub- It is a bit “eh” in my opinion but a great place to stop by to meet American/British/Irish/Aussie boys and then hit up some of the dive bars on the other side of Stradun (which you only REALLY want to go to in groups) but there are some sandwich places for late-night food.
There are various other bars on Stradun to get coffee/beer/wine. You really can drink all day which is what I tend to do J If for some odd reason it rains hit up the other side of Stradun on the side-streets for bars that have more of an indoor space (sort of useless if it’s a gorgeous night out!)
Sites to See
Palace Sponzza/ War Museum- While walking through Dubrovnik take the time to see some of the pockmarked walls. This city was under siege burned and its residents almost starved out in the 1990s. Take the time to see where the bombs hit the roofs and note how the city has re-built itself once again as a tourist mecca. The War Museum is small but moving and puts the history of Dubrovnik into perspective since UNESCO just recently finished rebuilding the city.
Dubrovnik Synagogue/Sinagoga- Oldest Sephardic synagogue in the world and second oldest in Europe.
Rector’s Palace- Used to be the seat of the government. They often have concerts here during the Festival and otherwise has a museum.
Aquarium and Maritime Museum- As I child I ran away to here with my friend Robi. It isn’t the best Aquarium but I do love it and always a nice, cool place to be on a hot afternoon.
War Photo Limited- This is the world’s only space that is dedicated solely to war photography. Since we had friends in Croatia during the war this was a very emotional place for me to visit. Plan going here then perhaps hitting up the shops or a wine bar afterwards.
Lindo- Lindo does evenings of Folkloric Music and Dance and has been around for the last 40 years. It is a beautiful evening of music and dance and when the festival is not on performs outside the city walls just before Banje beach.
Church of St. Blaise- You will see lots of St Blaise all around Dubrovnik as he is their patron Saint. This church is in the main square at the Ploce gate end of Stradun.
Onofri’s Great Fountain- This was bombed during the Balkan conflict of the 90s but has been beautifully re-done. During the 1991-92 war this was the only source of water for the citizens of Dubrovnik who stayed within the old city. Take a look over to your side and see the kids trying to step onto the stone step and hold themselves up. It is a fun activity to try but be careful as falling on the stone in the Old City can not be too fun.
It is located just as you come into the city via the Pile gate.
Check your guide book for more museums and sites within the city. I would give yourself an evening just to wander through the city…the side streets are very interesting and a bit of a workout when you get to the steps.
Walking the Walls
This is the MUST DO activity in Dubrovnik. The city’s walls are a great and challenging walk…wear comfortable shoes! You can get onto the walls at a few points in the city, just remember to keep your ticket on you because there are a few checkpoints where you will have to show that you paid.
While you are on the walls take time to get some great photos down Stradun (the main walkway through the walled city). Also speaking of time, the best time to walk the walls is at early in the evening where you get great light and it isn’t too hot. Also at that time the cruise boaters are safely back on their boats.
No worries there are places to get water/soda or even a snack while you are up there. Also while you are walking the length of the walls remember to stop at the Maritime Museum where you can see old maps dating back to the 1200s.
Lokrum
Lokrum is a great day trip from the city, just a 10min ferry ride from the harbor. Here you can swim, sun and enjoy all of the coves on the outskirts of the island. There is also a Benedictine Monastery, which is now in ruins but interesting to walk around and an adjourning Botanical Garden. Right near the Monestary there is a nice restaurant where you can get risotto with Squid Ink (which is soooo good!). Give yourself time to take a nice walk around the Island.
A note on Lokrum, watch the signs and stay away form the nude beach. If you want to sunbathe topless you can do that anywhere. The nude folks there are old and it is really not a site to see.
Get a map of the Island as it is tricky to found your way around….but don’t worry you can’t really get that lost. Remember bring sunscreen, a towel, cash (no ATMs!) and some water as you want to stay hydrated spending your day in the sun.
Stuff to check out that I haven’t done since I was a little kid
- Fish Picnic- drink on a boat, go to a beach, drink on the beach enjoy! There are places that advertise this in the old city, have no idea who does them now but they are very fun.
- Mostar- going this summer, it is a day trip and supposedly just breathtaking
- Korcula- home-made wine and olive oil, very peaceful and secluded beaches, very old-world traditional
